2007-06-25 00:00:00, buddyholly
3442 Views, 0 Comments
On June 16 South American ski resorts opened, minus one - the big mountain mecca Las Leñas. Though opening day was delayed by a week, it doesn’t take long before throngs of riders from around the world race south to ski the lines. So if you were looking to get away from it all in a little resort in Andes, think again… the riders follow the snow in a competition I like to call the ‘Rat Race’…
The RAT RACE
Photos by Re Wikstrom and Holly Walker
September 13, 2006: A day in the Las Leñas Rat Race
I awoke at 8:03am in Corbus #7, Zona Residencia (aka the Gringo Ghetto). Cardello in the bunk above me was gone. I guessed he had been serious the day before. We had gotten an inside scoop from our patroller friend Jose at 4pm on the last Marte chair lap. Our legs were burning from the pow day when he told us, “the fuera de pista was closed for the day but the backcountry will be open tomorrow.” We had joked of a 6am start, skinning up the groomed run under the Marte chair and onwards to Entre Rios for first tracks - beating the Rat Race.
As I munched on my sugary cereal I pictured Cardello skinning up the groomed run and approaching the boot pack. I giggled as I put on my ski clothes and headed outside. I squinted, my eyes adjusting to the bright sunlight as Alex waved from Lyra #1. “Good morning Gringa!” he shouted. He was the first to stir in the party house home to a slew of Silverton guides and any vagrant wishing to live in Gordo’s well-connected apartment.
I knocked on Corbus #5’s door. “Is Chris here?” I inquired as I entered a bunkroom of 6 sleeping bodies… “Rise n’ shine buddy. Let’s go get you some birthday freshies!”
20 minutes later we loaded the Las Lenas retrofitted school bus and headed to the main base area. As we passed by the Innsbruck terrace the usual breakfast crew was MIA so we headed onwards to the Marte chair. A short line and ride pursued and from the top we passed Cerro Martin and dropped down towards Entre Rios.
The boot pack was set. Cardello had made it and closing in behind him was Colby and Morgan who had left Los Molles (15 minutes down the road from Las Leñas) at an unspeakable hour to join Cardello. Norwegians, Americans, French, Argentines, Canadians, Austrians, Brits and so on…At least 30 other rippers with fresh legs would be racing off of the Marte chair soon…
Chris waited while I strapped my skis to my pack shaking my head. Tiny silhouettes of riders were racing up Entre Rios, Cerro Martin, Cerro Negro and El Collar. We exchanged an understanding glance: ‘we would be the first up Torrecillas and Chris would be the first one down it on his birthday!’ So we set a fast pace but Doug and his friends from Colorado caught us. “Where you headed?” I inquired through struggled breaths. “Valle Hermosa,” he replied. PHEW! They had bigger plans beyond…
An hour and a half later Chris and I reached the final ridge and a smile crept across my face. Torrecillas was glowing in the sun - fresh, untracked and ours. Chris continued ahead and as I sped to catch up… THE WIND HIT ME.
A heli dropped on top of the ridge and 4 skiers from Aspen and Vail jumped out, clicked in and skied down.
We thought we had outsmarted the Race. Instead we were slapped in the face. A three hour effort mocked by the more privileged in the Rat Race. We dropped in avoiding tracks and rode unbelievably light pow after days of wind.
The call was made: one lap had been enough and more riders were now descending. As we traversed back to the resort we passed a lone skier sipping on tea from a thermos. “Where you been skiing?” I asked. “Well I started on Cerro Martin, then skied Entre Rios. I just finished Cerro Negro and am headed to Torrecillas. You?” he replied. I was ashamed to answer. “Just Torrecillas, big day yesterday you know… the snow is good up there, you’ll enjoy it,” I said blushing.
I descended towards the bus stop and was diverted by a huge après-ski crowd gathering at Las Rosas patio. Gringos guzzled Budweisers, ate pizzas and exchanged stories of the lines skied that day. Even Gordo from Buenos Aires had made it out of bed to join the Rat Race.
Just when we thought every gringo was accounted for minus Doug and his buddies in Valle Hermosa, one man arrived late. The mysterious tea sipping line bagging big mountain machine from here on out named “the Guru” had done it. His determination and turtle pace had won the Rat Race.
But who‘s kidding? There are no winners in the proverbial ‘Rat Race’…
At 10:07pm I brushed my teeth preparing for an epic sleep when I looked out the window to find an asado (Argentine barbecue). The beginnings of another big night in the Gringo Ghetto was forming, a celebration of the amazing day in the Andes.
September 14, 2006: Screwed the Rat Race and went heliskiing.
Sth American Heli skiing
--------------------------------------------------------
Looking to beat the Rat Race on travel prices:
Accommodation: share your casa
Los Molles: Jose’s Hostel josehostel@yahoo.com
Las Leñas: Apartments http://www.laslenasski.com
Transportation: take the bus
http://www.andesmar.com
http://www.iselin.com.ar
http://www.turismouspallata.com
http://www.atueltravel.com.ar
More sweet photos by Re Wikstrom: www.rewikstrom.com
Photos by Re Wikstrom and Holly Walker
September 13, 2006: A day in the Las Leñas Rat Race
I awoke at 8:03am in Corbus #7, Zona Residencia (aka the Gringo Ghetto). Cardello in the bunk above me was gone. I guessed he had been serious the day before. We had gotten an inside scoop from our patroller friend Jose at 4pm on the last Marte chair lap. Our legs were burning from the pow day when he told us, “the fuera de pista was closed for the day but the backcountry will be open tomorrow.” We had joked of a 6am start, skinning up the groomed run under the Marte chair and onwards to Entre Rios for first tracks - beating the Rat Race.
 |
 |
As I munched on my sugary cereal I pictured Cardello skinning up the groomed run and approaching the boot pack. I giggled as I put on my ski clothes and headed outside. I squinted, my eyes adjusting to the bright sunlight as Alex waved from Lyra #1. “Good morning Gringa!” he shouted. He was the first to stir in the party house home to a slew of Silverton guides and any vagrant wishing to live in Gordo’s well-connected apartment.
 |
I knocked on Corbus #5’s door. “Is Chris here?” I inquired as I entered a bunkroom of 6 sleeping bodies… “Rise n’ shine buddy. Let’s go get you some birthday freshies!”
 |
20 minutes later we loaded the Las Lenas retrofitted school bus and headed to the main base area. As we passed by the Innsbruck terrace the usual breakfast crew was MIA so we headed onwards to the Marte chair. A short line and ride pursued and from the top we passed Cerro Martin and dropped down towards Entre Rios.
 |
The boot pack was set. Cardello had made it and closing in behind him was Colby and Morgan who had left Los Molles (15 minutes down the road from Las Leñas) at an unspeakable hour to join Cardello. Norwegians, Americans, French, Argentines, Canadians, Austrians, Brits and so on…At least 30 other rippers with fresh legs would be racing off of the Marte chair soon…
 |
Chris waited while I strapped my skis to my pack shaking my head. Tiny silhouettes of riders were racing up Entre Rios, Cerro Martin, Cerro Negro and El Collar. We exchanged an understanding glance: ‘we would be the first up Torrecillas and Chris would be the first one down it on his birthday!’ So we set a fast pace but Doug and his friends from Colorado caught us. “Where you headed?” I inquired through struggled breaths. “Valle Hermosa,” he replied. PHEW! They had bigger plans beyond…
 |
 |
An hour and a half later Chris and I reached the final ridge and a smile crept across my face. Torrecillas was glowing in the sun - fresh, untracked and ours. Chris continued ahead and as I sped to catch up… THE WIND HIT ME.
 |
A heli dropped on top of the ridge and 4 skiers from Aspen and Vail jumped out, clicked in and skied down.
 |
We thought we had outsmarted the Race. Instead we were slapped in the face. A three hour effort mocked by the more privileged in the Rat Race. We dropped in avoiding tracks and rode unbelievably light pow after days of wind.
 |
 |
The call was made: one lap had been enough and more riders were now descending. As we traversed back to the resort we passed a lone skier sipping on tea from a thermos. “Where you been skiing?” I asked. “Well I started on Cerro Martin, then skied Entre Rios. I just finished Cerro Negro and am headed to Torrecillas. You?” he replied. I was ashamed to answer. “Just Torrecillas, big day yesterday you know… the snow is good up there, you’ll enjoy it,” I said blushing.
 |
I descended towards the bus stop and was diverted by a huge après-ski crowd gathering at Las Rosas patio. Gringos guzzled Budweisers, ate pizzas and exchanged stories of the lines skied that day. Even Gordo from Buenos Aires had made it out of bed to join the Rat Race.
 |
Just when we thought every gringo was accounted for minus Doug and his buddies in Valle Hermosa, one man arrived late. The mysterious tea sipping line bagging big mountain machine from here on out named “the Guru” had done it. His determination and turtle pace had won the Rat Race.
 |
But who‘s kidding? There are no winners in the proverbial ‘Rat Race’…
At 10:07pm I brushed my teeth preparing for an epic sleep when I looked out the window to find an asado (Argentine barbecue). The beginnings of another big night in the Gringo Ghetto was forming, a celebration of the amazing day in the Andes.
 |
September 14, 2006: Screwed the Rat Race and went heliskiing.
Sth American Heli skiing
--------------------------------------------------------
Looking to beat the Rat Race on travel prices:
Accommodation: share your casa
Los Molles: Jose’s Hostel josehostel@yahoo.com
Las Leñas: Apartments http://www.laslenasski.com
Transportation: take the bus
http://www.andesmar.com
http://www.iselin.com.ar
http://www.turismouspallata.com
http://www.atueltravel.com.ar
More sweet photos by Re Wikstrom: www.rewikstrom.com
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